Mitch Alland Offline Upload & Sell: Off
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zhangyue wrote:
Shooting at 18MP at ISO 64, you will have about 1.5 stop more DR than M10. If gentler film like rendering meanings Highlight without clipping, yes, M11 will help you achieve that. If you found you mostly shooting at ISO400, then the difference is negligible. If you are not interested in all those M11 EVF/LV features, then you may well save cost from buying a "slower" shutter M11.
Depend on what ISO you found you mostly shooting, The difference is mainly at ISO64 (about 1.5stop), than at ISO200 (about 1 stop). at ISO400, it almost is a wash already. General speaking, having a high DR sensor is always helpful to have wide shooting envelop, to have better tolerance for exposure error.
Based on what I have seen your images (they are wonderful), I feel the answer is not a clear cut At one hand, you usually shooting high contrast BW under high DR harsh light. This is the case really challenge sensor DR. However, you seems prefer high contrast look without worry too much about black losing detail. Your style is similar to Daidō Moriyama. I think the least worry about his image is DR Is he mostly using P&S or GR?
One thing I want to emphasis is for modern digital photography, if you want maximize DR capture, there is no highlight recover or shadow recover anymore and there is no "correct" exposure anymore. The only correct exposure to maximize the DR is the exposure that keep whitest white and darkest black in a single exposure. Let RAW develop to deal with "correct" exposure with tone mapping. This is a very important concept.
For example, you can think this way: for M11, you can simple default to underexpose 1.5 stop at ISO64 to get same images as M10 but there is extra 1.5 stop highlight room for you to play with. That is benefit M11 will bring you if you feel it is needed.
Hope the concept is clear to you and this helps you one way or the other....Show more →
Michael - Thanks. That is absolutely helpful. Most of my shooting is ISO 400+, although the images above were both shot at 200. Actually, with the Summaron-M 1:5.6/28, I almost always shoot above ISO 200 because the maximum aperture of this lens is f/5.6. After having read your valuable comments, my conclusion is to keep to the M10. Though I can understand and appreciate why many people will want the M11, for it's not necessary to "have the best", when what makes it the best may not be relavant for you and come with other tradeoffs, like the "slower" M11 shutter that you mention. For me, the greatest benefit would be the lighter weight of the black M11, but that is a minor matter. Also, the less frequently one changes digital cameras, the less "botheration" one has with learning new ways for processing, which is of course more important for color.
On the question of which camera Moriyama uses, while he used some of the Ricoh GRDs, for several years, according to a Japanese website, he has been shooting with the Nikon Coolpix S7000, a discontinued P&S camera with a 1/ 2.3 inch sensor, 16 MP, a 25-500mm EFOV zoom lens that produces only JPGs. Here is a quote from a January 2021 article on a Japanese website:
I once interviewed Daido Moriyama about the Ricoh GR. The last thing he said to me was "Akagi-san, when you meet someone from Ricoh, tell them to put a zoom lens on the GR". I asked him, "What? When I asked him why he said with a wry smile, "Because a zoom lens is convenient." Well, there was no way I could argue with a legend of the photography world...By the way, Daido Moriyama's favorite camera now is the COOLPIX S7000. If you are interested in it, please look it up (laugh).
SOURCE: in Google translate:
https://dc-watch-impress-co-jp.translate.goog/docs/column/akagi/1298253.html?_x_tr_sl=ja&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en-US&_x_tr_pto=wapp
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Frog Leaping photobook: https://www.frogleaping.org
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