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Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses

  
 
Jack Flesher
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p.84 #1 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Makten wrote:
It's very useful for RAW too, at least on the 50 mpix sensor. Looks way better than trying to recover shadows at ISO 100 (with the exact same shutter speed and aperture to retain highlights).

Edit: By the way, for those using C1, try lowering "clarity" to below zero. I've found that default is too much, making images look harsh and unnatural. I usually end up at -20 or thereabout.


Perhaps on the 50’s, I never owned one. But all it does in raw is underexpose by 400% or 2 stops. With auto iso set, it may use iso for the reduction, or shutter speed at base iso, so all it amounts to is having to regain in raw to get proper exposure back. There is more than enough headroom in the high-bit 100 raw files to not need to underexpose the raws, even in extreme high contrast scenes. IOW, by using it, you’re creating extra and unnecessary work, and potentially diminishing the shadow end of DR in the raw. But it can be advantageous if shooting 8-bit JPEGs.



Dec 31, 2025 at 10:10 AM
Makten
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p.84 #2 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Jack Flesher wrote:
Perhaps on the 50’s, I never owned one. But all it does in raw is underexpose by 400% or 2 stops. With auto iso set, it may use iso for the reduction, or shutter speed at base iso, so all it amounts to is having to regain in raw to get proper exposure back. There is more than enough headroom in the high-bit 100 raw files to not need to underexpose the raws, even in extreme high contrast scenes. IOW, by using it, you’re creating extra and unnecessary work, and potentially diminishing the shadow end of DR in the
...Show more

It does the same on the 50. What i mean is that _if_ you expose lower to not blow out highlights, you might as well use the DR200 or DR400 modes, because it looks better than lifting the shadows in PP.
ISO doesn't really matter in the end. What matters is how much light you let in on the sensor. Underexposing 2 stops at ISO 100 is effectively the same as normal exposure at ISO 400. Because you will (or at least can) use the same shutter speed and aperture.

If there is two full stops of "headroom" above white in the files from the GFX100, that's a really strange decision they did. Then you are throwing away two bits of depth every time you expose "perfectly". Makes little sense. Up to one stop is quite common, but never heard of two.



Dec 31, 2025 at 10:32 AM
Danpbphoto
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p.84 #3 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


ruthenium wrote:
and another travel snapshot

Dmitri,
the GFX system is VERY new to me also. The menus are very large and the selections too many for me to "digest".
I shoot raw all the time and convert in ACR. I have been frustrated by my inability to have the camera "see" what I am seeing or the files I want.

I'll, or we, will get there at some point Dmitiri!

You posted compositions above are fantastic! Everything is razor sharp and crisp! Great separation! I love silhouttes and #1 s great!
#2 is also very well composed and the beach with the background is wonderful.

Look forward to more stunning compositions!
Dan






Dec 31, 2025 at 11:05 AM
Jack Flesher
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p.84 #4 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Makten wrote:
It does the same on the 50. What i mean is that _if_ you expose lower to not blow out highlights, you might as well use the DR200 or DR400 modes, because it looks better than lifting the shadows in PP.
ISO doesn't really matter in the end. What matters is how much light you let in on the sensor. Underexposing 2 stops at ISO 100 is effectively the same as normal exposure at ISO 400. Because you will (or at least can) use the same shutter speed and aperture.

If there is two full stops of "headroom" above white
...Show more

I wouldn’t say two stops if headroom. But around 12 stops total DR in raw 14 bit, and 12 stops is broader than most scenes you come across. Hence, you have ample highlight data to pull it back if so desired. Re your argument re iso, in normal light, the camera might not need more than iso 100 while maintaining adequate shutter speed, so under exposure becomes more potentially damaging than beneficial. Any way you slice it, most of the time all DR400 accomplishes is adding more work in post and potentially harming shadow detail in some cases. IMHO FAR BETTER to use Exposure Comp or Manual exposure if you're worried about protecting highlight details.

Edited on Dec 31, 2025 at 12:08 PM · View previous versions



Dec 31, 2025 at 11:10 AM
Makten
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p.84 #5 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Jack Flesher wrote:
I wouldn’t say two stops if headroom. But around 12 stops total DR in raw 14 bit, and 12 stops is broader than most scenes you come across. Hence, you have ample highlight data to pull it back if so desired. Re your argument re iso, in normal light, the camera might not need more than iso 100 while maintaining adequate shutter speed, so under exposure becomes more potentially damaging than beneficial. Any way you slice it, most of the time all DR400 accomplishes is adding more work in post and potentially harming shadow detail in some cases. IMHO
...Show more

Not sure if you understand what I mean here. Using exposure comp (and lifting shadows in PP) at ISO 100 is effectively the same thing as using higher ISO (in this case with the DR modes). The sensor is hit by the same amount of light. It's just a matter of having to lift the shadows or letting the camera do it for you. You don't lose DR by raising ISO in this case.

IMO letting the camera do it looks much more natural, and there are no drawbacks unless you forget to change back to DR100 when you don't need high DR for the next shot. Or if you want very dark shadows that are not supposed to be lifted.

--------

Not saying this is for everyone, but I'm pretty sure that most people dismissing the DR modes haven't actually investigated what it does to the files. It's _not_ only useful for JPG.
My suggestion is to try it. I'm sure there are more people than me that would like it if they did.



Dec 31, 2025 at 12:07 PM
Jack Flesher
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p.84 #6 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Makten wrote:
Not sure if you understand what I mean here. Using exposure comp (and lifting shadows in PP) at ISO 100 is effectively the same thing as using higher ISO (in this case with the DR modes). The sensor is hit by the same amount of light. It's just a matter of having to lift the shadows or letting the camera do it for you. You don't lose DR by raising ISO in this case.

IMO letting the camera do it looks much more natural, and there are no drawbacks unless you forget to change back to DR100 when you don't
...Show more

Yes but -- you don't always need a higher ISO to achieve the correct exposure. Again, IF OR WHEN you're worried about blowing highlights, FAR BETTER to use EC or M mode...



Dec 31, 2025 at 12:09 PM
SGinNorcal
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p.84 #7 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


I tried the DR200 and DR400 modes and didn't care for them. I typically have EC set to -1/3 or even -1 in bright sun. I've been amazed at the ability to raise shadows when needed but it can go to far. I had a shot of some backlit geese flying and was stunned that I could lift the shadows enough to see their feather markings, which I could not see at the time in the EVF. But sometimes with complex lighting and color, the lifted shadows don't always look realistic. In the two shots posted, I actually prefer the dramatic clouds in the first one and the light reflecting on the chairs. But I get if you wanted more detail of the buildings, you would pull up the shadows. Of course there's always personal preferences too.


Dec 31, 2025 at 01:26 PM
Danpbphoto
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p.84 #8 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Happy New Year! Baker Park carillon.
Dan

GFX100s ii GF-20-35mmf4 R WR







Dec 31, 2025 at 01:34 PM
Makten
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p.84 #9 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Jack Flesher wrote:
Yes but -- you don't always need a higher ISO to achieve the correct exposure. Again, IF OR WHEN you're worried about blowing highlights, FAR BETTER to use EC or M mode...


That has absolutely nothing with this to do. Sorry, but I don't think you understand how it works.



Dec 31, 2025 at 03:59 PM
Jack Flesher
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p.84 #10 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Makten wrote:
That has absolutely nothing with this to do. Sorry, but I don't think you understand how it works.


Actually you’re the one confused. Shoot a raw + jpeg with DR400 on, then shoot the same shot with it off. Compare the raws and the dr400 will be 2 stops under-exposed. Compare the jpegs and they’ll both appear properly exposed, with the dr400 version potentially with more highlight details. So all it does is under expose the raw, but internally processes the jpeg for expanded dr, predominantly seen in the jpeg highlights. It’s a JPEG process tool, and does zero to benefit a raw. In fact, it can actually be destructive to a raw in certain circumstances.



Dec 31, 2025 at 04:35 PM
 


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ruthenium
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p.84 #11 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Jack Flesher wrote:
Actually you’re the one confused. Shoot a raw + jpeg with DR400 on, then shoot the same shot with it off. Compare the raws and the dr400 will be 2 stops under-exposed. Compare the jpegs and they’ll both appear properly exposed, with the dr400 version potentially with more highlight details. So all it does is under expose the raw, but internally processes the jpeg for expanded dr, predominantly seen in the jpeg highlights. It’s a JPEG process tool, and does zero to benefit a raw. In fact, it can actually be destructive to a raw in certain circumstances.


Jack, first - I don't use DR200 and DR400. These are confusing options, for sure. When I first encountered the two, I tried to obtain as much information as possible. At the end, I am not 100% sure I know what the camera is doing. What I have learned basically aligns with what you say: the camera underexposes by -1 and -2 stops respectively in DR200 and DR400. The objective is understood: to avoid clipping the highlights as much as possible. This is also understood that this exposing-to-the-left should negatively impact the shadows. This is unless there is some sort of dual-gain processing like Panasonic is doing in some of their cameras, or in the new Sony A7V. I don't know this, and this seems unlikely. Thus, if there is no clever way of processing, the HD200 and HD400 result in a loss of the dynamic range, and this isn't what I want from my camera. The metering on the GFX100S II already seems rather conservative to me, by at least -1/3 or possibly -2/3 of a stop. Thus, underexposing further is not something that I expect to be useful or generally needed. These HD200 and HD400 settings are unique to Fuji. I have not encountered such processing on Sony, Olympus, OM, or Panasonic bodies. There must be some thinking behind HD200 and HD400, but I have not seen a clear explanation for reducing the camera DR.

What is not quite clear to me is how exactly the camera does underexposing? I have just looked through the viewfinder toward my monitor. With HD100 and ISO 500, the SS was 1/5s (I closed the aperture to F8, on the lens). I switched to HD200, then to HD400 - and, nothing happened! The ISO and SS remained unchanged. This doesn't quite make sense to me. When I used exposure compensation, to underexpose by -1 stop, naturally the SS changed to 1/10.
Do you know how the exposure can be reduced by 1 or 2 stops without changing the aperture, SS, and ISO? This seems impossible. I am sure I am missing something here. This is why I said above that I am not 100% sure I know what the camera is doing.



Dec 31, 2025 at 05:29 PM
Jack Flesher
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p.84 #12 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


ruthenium wrote:
Jack, first - I don't use DR200 and DR400. These are confusing options, for sure. When I first encountered the two, I tried to obtain as much information as possible. At the end, I am not 100% sure I know what the camera is doing. What I have learned basically aligns with what you say: the camera underexposes by -1 and -2 stops respectively in DR200 and DR400. The objective is understood: to avoid clipping the highlights as much as possible. This is also understood that this exposing-to-the-left should negatively impact the shadows. This is unless there is some sort
...Show more

Your experience mirrors my own when I had the GFX and to a large degree even in the XH2. When I initially went to Fuji, I dug into DR and found out pretty quickly that Fuji was pretty vague on exactly what was happening under the hood. Fuji does say however that it's a jpeg DR tool for whatever that's worth. What is obvious is that DR200 reduces a raw exposure by 1 stop and DR400 does it by 2 stops. The methodology of the underexposure is unclear, and I never bothered trying to figure it out since I am primarily a raw shooter and simply turned it off when I learned it was a tool specifically for enhancing jpeg DR.

What we do know is that a jpeg can only hold about 8 stops maximum of DR, yet with a gamma curve about 10 stops can be "compressed" visually into it -- and I suspect this is at least similar to what Fuji is doing under the hood via DR200/400. We also know the Fuji raws can hold over 12 stops, so underexposing 2 won't hurt them a lot on that 8-bit base jpeg conversion, AND at the same time it protects/retains some highlight detail. (However I do stand by my assertion that in certain circumstances, especially since it's unclear how they're doing it, the underexposure can be destructive to shadows in the higher bit raw file, i.e.; more shadow lifting and more noise.) Now they theoretically can apply whatever internal algorithm or curve internally, lift the shadows and balance the mid and highlight appearance across all 8 stops to a "reasonable" level for rendering out the 8-bit jpeg. How exactly they implement it however, I do not know...



Dec 31, 2025 at 06:29 PM
Makten
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p.84 #13 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Jack Flesher wrote:
Actually you’re the one confused. Shoot a raw + jpeg with DR400 on, then shoot the same shot with it off. Compare the raws and the dr400 will be 2 stops under-exposed. Compare the jpegs and they’ll both appear properly exposed, with the dr400 version potentially with more highlight details. So all it does is under expose the raw, but internally processes the jpeg for expanded dr, predominantly seen in the jpeg highlights. It’s a JPEG process tool, and does zero to benefit a raw. In fact, it can actually be destructive to a raw in certain circumstances.


Nope, that's not what's happenning and you still don't understand. No point in arguing, do whatever you want. I will keep using DR now and then because it's great.

Edit: And some of the other replies above are.....interesting. "I don't understand how it works, so it must be bad". Sigh.



Jan 01, 2026 at 07:07 AM
KKFung
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p.84 #14 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Handheld shots of fire works with 100s2, 35-70

DSCF3128 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3133 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3145 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3151 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

Xpan crop with 4 vertical stitched on Jan. 1st 2026 sun rises
DSCF3363-Pano by KK Fung, 於 Flickr



Jan 01, 2026 at 07:27 AM
Danpbphoto
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p.84 #15 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


KKFung wrote:
Handheld shots of fire works with 100s2, 35-70

Happy New Year "Double K"!!!!
Magical compositions here! The masted vessel, fireworks, other types of illuminated media really make these compositions pop!
Very well seen and composed!
Dan




Jan 01, 2026 at 11:07 AM
burningheart
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p.84 #16 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


.






















Jan 01, 2026 at 08:25 PM
KKFung
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p.84 #17 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Danpbphoto wrote:
Happy New Year "Double K"!!!!
Magical compositions here! The masted vessel, fireworks, other types of illuminated media really make these compositions pop!
Very well seen and composed!
Dan



Happy New Years Dan! I actually had no preparation for the fire work shooting, just tried to point and shoot and the image stabilizer really amazing, only 1 out of 40 shots was burred, all shots with the shutter speed around 1 sec (all shot at 35mm). On the other hand, I used aperture pilot, average exposure metering, auto ISO, most of the shots are over exposed, but it could recovered in Lightroom very easy. Seem like Fuji have the best control on the highlight tone from my experience when compare to other digital cameras. Fuji highlight always looks "bright" instead of "blown" when it is over or close to over exposed.



Jan 01, 2026 at 10:03 PM
KKFung
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p.84 #18 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Some casual shots during a shot trip in a cinema city in China.

DSCF3198 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3212 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3225 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3231 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3236 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3237 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3239 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3246 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3249 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3250 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3253 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3254 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3259 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3266 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3277 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3303 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3307 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3308 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3310 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3304-2 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr

DSCF3311-2 by KK Fung, 於 Flickr



Jan 01, 2026 at 10:46 PM
burningheart
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p.84 #19 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


.







Jan 02, 2026 at 11:58 AM
ruthenium
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p.84 #20 · Fuji GFX Image Thread - all cameras and lenses


Two casual portraits, taken with my new GF55mm F1.7 lens that arrived on the last day of 2025.
These were taken in a low, ugly artificial light - not unusual for candid and street photography.
I spent at least 2 hours working on the corrections.












Jan 02, 2026 at 12:05 PM
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