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 p.1 #11 · Sony Full-Frame vs. Olympus OM1 II? | |
Cross posted in the SOny forum.
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chiron wrote:
I usually don't shoot at base ISO, so that is not an issue for me (but I am likely to be shooting at high ISO, which is one of my concerns about the OM1 II's MFT format).
I rarely shoot macro.
I don't have and I am not drawn to the new f2 zooms--they are too big and heavy to be appealing for me.
Almost all of my shooting takes place in the range from 24mm to 90mm and can be described as documentary in style, whether it is travel, family, street, or even landscape, architecture, and still life.
So,...Show more →
Having been through the whole thread I'm going to quote this post not only because it's from the OP but because it invites a response to some critical points. I've also trimmed away anything I consider not pertinent. I apologise in advance for the length of this post !!!
For Sony I shoot (have shot with) : A7r, rii, A7, r4 and I still have the r5 and A6000 (converted to IR FS). Abotu 18 months ago I delved into M43 and because totally hooked, I now have the OM1i, OM3 and OM5i (selling - or I should say sold as it's on it's way soon).
At one time I had around 35-40 lenses for my Sonys, that's now 6-7. I started with 3-4 lenses for the OM1i, that's now 12.
There's a lot to unpack however I'd urge you to take a look at my Instagram from the past 18 months here (a lot of genres are covered). I mainly shoot travel, street, cityscapes and landscapes and street portraits.
https://www.instagram.com/thedragonsfather/
DYNAMIC RANGE
Not that anyone can actually see that on a 4k monitor anyway (and most have lower res. than 4k)! Current Rec.709 displays are really only designed to output between 7 and 9 stops of dynamic range. HDR displays can now show 10-14 stops of dynamic range. UHD is 13 stops. sRGB being an 8-bit space, limits the displayable dynamic range to 8 stops (and this is what the VAST majority of people view at and what printers generally want the files delivered in). Adobe RGB, has a dynamic range of around 10 stops.
The OM1 has a DR of 13.4 stops. OM-3 is 13.7 stops. Sony A7Cii & A7r5 have 15 stops . Nikon Z8 has 14.3 stops. Canon R8 has 14.7 stops. In other words - you aren't going to see any difference between them on a monitor, TV, phone or laptop! Pixel peeping you will see a difference in the shadows - but M43 cameras are better at managing highlights and recovering what you may think is blown out.
RESOLUTION
I've found that x3 the resolution is rarely a major (if any) advantage. If you crop a lot (not a usual situation for most shooters) then yes, otherwise the OM files print beautifully up to 80x60cms (and I've heard some say much larger though I haven't printed any larger than that) with zero issue at all (the size I printed at for a recent exhibition in Shanghai of 24 images). If you want to pixel peep on a computer then be my guest but it's not making a distinct (any) difference when printed and viewed at the correct distance.
Note also that with today's software upscaling is a simple solution : There is virtually no difference in the 1:1 files after upscaling, so long as you used quality glass which could define the finer details in the first place. Of course if you pixel peep even deeper then there are differences, you can't beat native resolution, however for most people that's not required or necessary. YMMV.
AF
OM1 vs my Sony A7r5 is good enough and close enough for virtually everything I personally shoot, even though the Sony is a fraction faster and a fraction more accurate. Whether it's my imagination or not (impossible to quantify unless you are shooting the exact same subject at the exact same moment, with both systems) I find the OM-3 just as good as the A7r5 (the OM-3 has the guts of the latest OM1ii, at least for what I shoot, and the eye-AF for people/birds/dogs etc. is excellent.
LOW DoF Portraits
Check out my street portraits shot with the OM 45/1.2, SIgma 56/1.4, OM 75/1.8 and also with the 20/1.4
https://www.instagram.com/p/DL4_OWEILeh/?img_index=1
https://www.instagram.com/p/DGGugCFsp0B/?img_index=1
https://www.instagram.com/p/DI6bLgFocgp/?img_index=1
https://www.instagram.com/p/DERbNloC4d0/?img_index=9
NOISE & LOW LIGHT
Never an issue with modern software and those fast (f1.2 and f1.4) lenses are superb in low light. If you don't post process then maybe it could be an issue.
However look at this set - I was the BTS shooter on a music video, shot in a club basement. Not one shot under 12,800 and most at 25,600 ISO. You lose some detail (especially on Instagram!) but the client was more than happy.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DIYmhMAR76i/?img_index=1
PRINT
It's important to note though that if you don't print large or sell large digital files (and the vast majority of people don’t) but mostly post to social media for family/friends, or have smaller prints made, produce books or sell to stock agencies, even sell for billboards, then you absolutely don't need large files and 20mp (and even 12mp cameras such as the Nikon D700 or D3s or the revered Sony A7s range) are more than you'll ever need. Nowadays cameras come with more and more MPs - because let's face it - that's been a major selling point for decades, even if most people don't know why they need that many pixels.
I upscaled many of those shots in that exhibition (in ON1 Photo Raw 2024) at 200% with the files then being roughly 40+mp. The prints have been delivered and all look great to me (upscaled or not), as they did when pixel peeping on my Philips 32" 4K. So I know there wouldn't be any issue whatsoever even if I upscaled further and printed at 60" x 40", should any client require a print of that size.
The table below (file size requirements) are taken from a high quality US printing shop's website - Whitewall perhaps) and is before any upscaling is considered. In inches (do your own conversion to cms !) because it was from a US printer :
MPs ........ Resolution .......... V.G.Print
12.4 ....... 2912 x 4368 ....... Up to 30x40”
16.2 ....... 3328 x 4992 ....... Up to 30x40”
17.9 ....... 3456 x 5184 ....... Up to 36x48”
21.0 ....... 3744 x 5616 ....... Up to 40x60”
An outstanding print (for 1 to 1 sales) would be :
12mp = 16 x 24”
20mp = 20 x 30”
I'd suggest people take a look at this thread to see what upscaling can do (even pixel peeping) with M43 files : https://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/1879214/0#16682231
SIZE AND WEIGHT
I look with bemusement at claims Sony can match the M43 lenses for size and weight. It simply isn't true. Many m43 lenses are absolutely miniscule (15/1.7, 17/1.8, 25/1.8, 45/1.8 etc. or the Laowa 7.5 f2 or 10mm f2) but still super sharp and produce great images. Lenses such as the Laowa wide trinity (6mm, 7.5mm and 10mm - double for FF equivalents), the f1.8 trinity, most favourite lens the 20/1.4 PRO or the trio of superb portrait lenses (OM 45/1.2 PRO, Sigma 56/1.4 or OM 75/1.8).
The other PRO lenses 12-40/2.8 and 40-150/2.8 are spectacular. As are the 300/4 and 150-400 (other worldly good but with a price tag to match).
I fit my normal street kit of mini tripod, OM3, Laowa 6+10, OM 20/1.4 and OM 45/1.2. plus filters and extra batteries (rarely used) in a small 6L sling. Around 2.5 kgs inc. the bag !
BTW the PRO designation means, aside from guaranteeing their top, sharpest lenses, that they are IP-X53 rated - no other camera manufacturer has yet dared to send their gear off to be tested and rated to those levels.
IBIS & COMPUTATIONAL MODES
The M43 sensor is ¼ of the size of FF by area - which means far easier to stabilise regardless of how many stops each claim. In the real world if I can hold the A7r5 still for a ½ second shot then I've done really well ! With my OM cameras I can usually nail 4 secs pretty easily (1-2 attempts), 5-6 secs (4-5 attempts). Now imagine what you can do with that - for me I like to show movement (human) in city environments.
Olympus have been miles ahead of the rest of the photographic world for decades for computational modes. Canon, Sony and Nikon have only recently introduced pro-capture which Oly have in their decade old cameras. Recently expanding their in camera ND filter range to 128 in the OM1ii. There are numerous others from Starry Sky for Astro to Live Composite (my absolute favourite) which will add only additional new light to the base photo - from lightning, fireworks, light painting etc. see the Fireworks shots on my IG.
https://www.instagram.com/p/DFhzTu0JOvZ/?img_index=1
CREATIVE DIAL
This is solely on the OM-3 (though jpg manipulation can be performed in other OM cameras it's a bit more convoluted to both add the recipe and switch to it in use).
Basically there are 5 'points' on the dial that you can program and easily switch at a second's notice. 3 of mine are Dramatic II (a very wide gamut B&W), Leica Mono D and a Portra 400. Shooting in RAW+Jpg gives me the best of both worlds, customised recipes for the jpgs + a RAW.
REAL WORLD
In the real world there are very few people who would be unhappy with a M43 kit. The cameras and lenses are excellent and some spectacular, also generally smaller and less expensive (especially on the Used markets) which means the whole kit (from tripod to bags to filters etc. etc.) are all smaller and less expensive.
The images are super sharp with fast AF. And the computational modes are so much fun.
Most of my work doesn't need NR but still since every shot is processed (mainly in ON1) then I apply it by default, all images are super super clean and sharp.
TLDR
I love both my Sonys and my OM cameras. Horses for courses. However nowadays, unless for model shoots (A7r5+85/1.4 though I'll still use the OM1 and portrait lenses alongside it) the OM-3 with Leofoto grip (incorporating an L bracket) is the camera I reach for 95% of the time.
Chinon - I'd urge you to take a look at the OM-3 (but you must add the Leofoto grip - which is transformative) and a couple of small primes. Maybe hire the OM-3 + 20/1.4 and 45/1.2, I think this setup is near perfect for your needs. M43 has put the word FUN back into my photography whilst retaining a very high image quality.
Edited on Aug 05, 2025 at 06:39 PM · View previous versions
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