Alan321 wrote:
Larry,
I suggest you build an all new PC sand keep the old one intact. Most old components are pretty useless in terms of a modern computer. Having the old one allows you to take your time with the new build and still have working software. It allows comparisons too.
This was my intended approach but the old one died a bit too soon and I've really missed having it available. That was made worse by downgrading from Windows 10 to 11 at the same time. A lot of undocumented Windows and software settings and tweaks have been unavailable to me and need to recalled rather than copied.
If you've already made the change to Windows 11 then there'll be less shock....Show more →
Thanks for pokin' your head in the door Alan. And thanks for sharing your thoughts.
I have indeed decided to build a whole new system. All new parts seems like a better choice. Well...except for the 27" BenQ SW271 monitor. Although....for the measly sum of $2.1k I could upgrade to the now discontinued 32" BenQ SW321 C.
When Microsoft ended support for Win10 back in October I begrudgingly went ahead and chose the option to "update" to Win11. For some reason it did not completely upgrade my system. I seem to be stuck somewhere in the middle...and I still get notified about updates? My wife got a new laptop last year that had Win!! preloaded and we both absolutely HATE it especially the "new" Outlook! So I am just riding the halfway wave on this machine for now. I am NOT looking forward installing a fresh copy of Win11 on the new machine.
I use KVMP switches to use a bunch of computers with monitors. Many displays also have a USB switch inside to do that with at least two computers, for example a laptop and desktop so you can share the KB, mouse and display with simple keyboard commands or a switch.
LarryBeemer wrote:
Thanks for stopping in Oscar. I appreciate you sharing your thoughts.
Considering why the prices skyrocketed in the first place, I really don't see prices coming down in the very near future. And I really don't see them EVER getting back to what they were just 3 months ago. What I do fear is that prices will get even more outrageous and I will get bent over even further. At this point I'm just hoping to catch a quick random sale here and there.
As far as selling the scooter.....the way people behave on the highway anymore scares me MUCH more than they used to. Plus, I have contemplated taking another 2 week biker dude vacation to the southern Utah/northern Arizona area but with prices as they are right now, that 2 week vacation would cost as much if not more than this PC. It's getting more and more difficult to justify keeping it any longer.
You have very valid concerns with the prices. I also think prices will get worse before they get better. With the scooter, the way people behave just in a parking lot scare me half to death. I won't try to talk you out of selling it.
We are all getting bent over for one thing or another these days
LarryBeemer wrote:
Although....for the measly sum of $2.1k I could upgrade to the now discontinued 32" BenQ SW321 C.
Looking at the BenQ website, the SW321C is on sale for only $1999 and is currently out of stock, but I don't see any indication it is discontinued (in contrast with the PD3220U which clearly says DISCONTINUED). What makes you think it is discontinued?
vbnut wrote:
Looking at the BenQ website, the SW321C is on sale for only $1999 and is currently out of stock, but I don't see any indication it is discontinued (in contrast with the PD3220U which clearly says DISCONTINUED). What makes you think it is discontinued?
Out of stock on the manufacturer's site would indicate to me that it is on it's way to being no longer available (discontinued). It is available on Amazon for $1999 but with only 5 left in stock. On NewEgg it is listed for $2099 but no inventory availability listed.. It is listed as discontinued at B&H.
Another quick update on this project....cause I know you wanna know.
Most parts are ordered. Some of them have already been delivered. There have been some variations on some of the items mentioned previously. Here are the changes.
I decided on a Western Digital WD_Black SN8100 2TB NVMe SSD - PCIe 5.0x4, M.2 2280 to be used as my "C" drive.
I found a decent deal on an Gigabyte RTX 5080 Windforce graphics card which triggered an "additional/substantial savings" deal on a pair of 32gb (total 64gb) Corsair Vengeance DDR5 (6000) ram sticks.
Some things that hadn't really crossed my mind....until now.
I will also need a new operating system license. Win11 Home edition. $140 I'm trying decide which is the best option to be sure I get the retail version.....download or actual dvd/usb. I'm confused.
I will also need a new Adobe Creative Cloud license. $170/yr I just bought one for $120 less than 4 months ago.
I will also need a new MS Office Home & Business license (this is the only version that comes with Outlook) Latest version is 2024. $240. I currently have (and am happy with) the 2019 version but I don't see a trusted source from whom I can get a copy of that long discontinued edition.
That's an additional $550 that was not considered at the beginning. And...I am certain there's probably a couple hundred more that I haven't thought about yet.
I would get 11 Pro for BitLocker to go and a few other things. If you don't want to pay $200 for retail USB, you can get a legit OEM DVD for about $150. All you really need is the license.
Larry, you could make the switch to Libre Office at zero $ but it will take some time to come to grips with it.
The same will apply to a lesser extent with MS Office 2024. You may find some features of Office 2019 are no longer available. Or perhaps that was just because I had the older Office 2016. I was very peeved with losing OneNote. MS seems to hate a lot of their old stuff; Access and Visual Basic come to mind. I was also fed up that even looking at old emails triggers a file update that triggers a fresh backup, when in fact no user data had been altered. People might think I'm paranoid but deep down I just know that MS does it to annoy me
Alan321 wrote:
Larry, you could make the switch to Libre Office at zero $ but it will take some time to come to grips with it.
The same will apply to a lesser extent with MS Office 2024. You may find some features of Office 2019 are no longer available. Or perhaps that was just because I had the older Office 2016. I was very peeved with losing OneNote. MS seems to hate a lot of their old stuff; Access and Visual Basic come to mind. I was also fed up that even looking at old emails triggers a file update that triggers a fresh backup, when in fact no user data had been altered. People might think I'm paranoid but deep down I just know that MS does it to annoy me ...Show more →
Alan,
Thanks for offering your thoughts. I appreciate it.
I am at the age where learning something new is more of a challenge than I'm prepared to take on. I only use Word and Outlook on a regular basis. I never really learned Excel but I make an attempt once in a while. What I would like is Publisher. I used to have a stand alone version yeeeeears ago and used it regularly. But as far as I can tell it is only offered in the MS 365 package and I'm not AT ALL interested in that nightmare. Way too much intrusion of my privacy.
Larry, check out Affinity Publisher as a good replacement for MS Publisher.
I bought my copy, but then Canva decided to make their software free in the basic stand-alone non-AI versions.
The only problem I recall having is getting used to some publishing-industry terminology, but you'll get used to it.
Hi mcdonnell,
Just to let you know — we've received your order #76053, and it is now being processed:
[Order #76053] (March 24, 2026)
Product Quantity Price
BUNDLE: Windows 11 Pro + Microsoft Office Professional 2024 1 USD 368.99
Best full version of Office 2024
Subtotal: USD 368.99
Discount: -USD 356.00
Payment method: PayPal -
Total: USD 12.99
BUNDLE: Windows 11 Pro + Microsoft Office Professional 2024
purchased yesterday installed no problem activate no problem
$3,337.99
Estimated Value
$4,037.99
$700.00
or $279/mo for 12-mo. on Dell Pay ^ Details
Processor
Intel® Core™ Ultra 9 285K, 24 cores
Operating System
Windows 11 Home
Graphics Card
NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 5080
Memory
32 GB DDR5
Storage
2 TB SSD
Get it as soon as Thursday, Apr 16
Processor
Intel® Core™ Ultra 9 285K, 24 cores
Operating System
Windows 11 Home
Graphics Card
NVIDIA® GeForce RTX™ 5080
Memory
32 GB DDR5
Storage
2 TB SSD
Get it as soon as Thursday, Apr 16
All of the parts are in so construction has begun. I will post a complete list of everything when it's all finished and operational. HOWEVER......as is frequently the case, I've already come across something that has me confused. Hopefully someone can help?
The SSD drive has a label on one side (which can easily be removed). The label has the serial number, upc code, as well as other pertinent identification information It happens to be on the side that is facing up when installed and makes contact with the heat sync. This is the only way the drive fits into the slot so I know it has to be correctly installed.
Every video I have watched that shows the drive being installed, the label is left on the drive. When/if the drive heats up, won't the glue on the label get warm and melt? I can see where that might cause some trouble. Or does it not get that hot? I don't see how it would hurt anything to remove the label...I actually think it's a good idea (I can put it on the plastic container it came in and keep it with all the other extra parts that will be saved...but why do the videos not show the label being removed? Am I missing something?
Do not remove labels on NVMe SSDs. They are often part of the heat spreading design and besides will void the warranty. I have no idea what videos are involved. You put the M.2 SSD in the slot at an angle and then rotate down. Then you use a tiny screw or a rotating hold down built into the board. The mainbord heatsink with it's thermal pad goes on top of that. Some mainboards have heatsinks on both sides, at least on the PCIe 5.x slots. Some boards have up to 4 M.2 slots and the slower ones may not have a heatsink. What model of mainboard do you have? You usually want to use the fastest slots, typically closest to the CPU.
EB-1 wrote:
Do not remove labels on NVMe SSDs. They are often part of the heat spreading design and besides will void the warranty. I have no idea what videos are involved. You put the M.2 SSD in the slot at an angle and then rotate down. Then you use a tiny screw or a rotating hold down built into the board. The mainbord heatsink with it's thermal pad goes on top of that. Some mainboards have heatsinks on both sides, at least on the PCIe 5.x slots. Some boards have up to 4 M.2 slots and the slower ones may not have a heatsink. What model of mainboard do you have? You usually want to use the fastest slots, typically closest to the CPU.
Thanks EB. I appreciate your response.
Soon after posting I was able to find several videos describing the differences between leaving the label on vs removing it. The general consensus was, as you said....leave it on.
For some reason this build is proving to be more than just a little frustrating for me. I will eventually prevail, but I may not have any hair left.
Initially it was confusing since your post indicated buying the 990 Pro M.2 SSD version with heatsink attached. Those are not meant to be removed and you can destroy the SSD by trying to pry it off. The labels on many SSDs contain metal layers designed to distribute heat better to the thermal pads. If a manufacturer wants any label or protective film to be removed it is normally clear in the installation instructions. Sometimes the mainboard heatsink thermal pads will have film.
The first one is the hardest if you are not so inclined. After a while it's under an hour for simple builds.
Most of the time spent is like on any computer, installing and setting up the OS/applications they way you like. I spent longer setting up a silly cell phone earlier this year.
EB-1 wrote:
Initially it was confusing since your post indicated buying the 990 Pro M.2 SSD version with heatsink attached. Those are not meant to be removed and you can destroy the SSD by trying to pry it off. The labels on many SSDs contain metal layers designed to distribute heat better to the thermal pads. If a manufacturer wants any label or protective film to be removed it is normally clear in the installation instructions. Sometimes the mainboard heatsink thermal pads will have film.
The first one is the hardest if you are not so inclined. After a while it's under an hour for simple builds.
Most of the time spent is like on any computer, installing and setting up the OS/applications they way you like. I spent longer setting up a silly cell phone earlier this year.
Sorry for the confusion. I ended up with a WD_Black SN8100 2TB NVMe SSD - PCIe 5.0x4, M.2 2280 drive without the heat sink.
I built my current computer in 2019. I don't recall having as much trouble with that one as I am having with this one. However, I am older now and my mind is turning to vapor more rapidly than I'd like. Also, back in ancient times, each part came with understandable instructions and fewer options. The instructions these days seem more vague with crucial (to me) parts missing.
I think I have it all assembled now but I can't fire it up just yet. Waiting on the monitor and the software. Hopefully by the end of the week.
