Olympus has something called Art Filter Bracketing. You can select a list art filters or regular profiles (check mark each item) and the camera will generate each jpeg for you at the time that you take the shot. Your dream has been realized.
Pixelpuffin wrote:
The hyperfocal distance technique is a far cry from actually focusing on the subject itself.
I said autofocus and focus point, not focus distance, and I really did mean that you should rely on the camera’s autofocus most of the time. The hyperfocal distance technique is a non-starter with most modern mirrorless lenses, which don’t have a distance scale, and not practical even with the old Canon EF L autofocus lenses because the distance scales on those are too rudimentary. And I think that with 20 years’ experience you shouldn’t need the focus peaking tool to see your depth of field, you should just know it at the settings you normally shoot at; if not, many cameras have a depth of field preview, and some mirrorless ones can be set to leave the lens stopped down to the shooting aperture except in extreme lighting conditions.
If you must manually focus, the appropriate aid on recent Canon cameras is the “guide” with the three triangles. Most people who’ve used it seem to think it’s excellent, as do I. Cameras sprouted focus peaking in stills mode because video shooters were used to it, and it’s unclear to me whether anyone other than the usual underqualified influencers actually asked for it (bullied the makers into adding it).
Canon autofocussing aids include subject detection and eye detection, and some cameras can even be programmed to recognise a known face among several in the scene and focus on that automatically.
You seem to consistently make things harder than they need to be. You propose using peaking in a way it’s not designed for, instead of just using autofocus. You try to store images permanently on SD cards instead of on a computer or in the cloud. You buy multiple similar camera kits and then agonise on which to take away on a trip.
