p.1 #1 · Canon R5 Mk II + RF 100-500 mm - Current Mysteries
A few questions if I may:
1a) When looking through my new R5 Mk II viewfinder at a live subject with the intention of photographing it, what I see is distinctly tinted and colored blue/blue-green for some inexplicable reason. I am not seeing the natural colors as its not accurate.
The colors red, orange and yellow are not shown at all. Really weird.
I can achieve similar output if I deliberately and intentionally set the white balance to say 3,500K
I mentioned this to my salesperson when purchasing it and got no answer.
1b) The displays brightness is also too low or too high.
Suggestions on how to achieve naturalness please!
2) Why is it that I can only get f7.1 when fully extended on my new RF 100-500 lens?
I want f4.5 or 5.6 so I can cut down on ISO levels and increase shutter speed!
How is this rectified as for many years I could set an f-stop to be f5.6 and it didn’t matter whether a lens was at 100,500 mm or anywhere in-between.
3) In what situations, uses or for what purposes do I use:
Mechanical shutter and the 2 electronic shutter options?
The display brightness and EVF have a few settings you can try for brightness and color tint/white balance. However, if there are no reds or colors containing red like orange and yellow, the EVF is possibly defective (could be the wiring to it). Do a full reset of the camera and update the firmware just in case something was set strangely. Check the images in a computer. If that doesn't help then I'd suggest replacing the camera if new or repairing if not.
p.1 #3 · Canon R5 Mk II + RF 100-500 mm - Current Mysteries
GreenHaven wrote:
2) Why is it that I can only get f7.1 when fully extended on my new RF 100-500 lens?
I want f4.5 or 5.6 so I can cut down on ISO levels and increase shutter speed!
Thank you
Your phrasing above suggests you want a faster lens than possible at 500mm. I think you mean you want to use it at maximum aperture throughout the zoom range.
With Canon's variable aperture zooms, you have to start at the widest focal length, set it wide open, and then zoom to the desired focal length. As long as you don't change the aperture, whatever focal length you set as you zoom in and out, it will adjust the aperture to the widest setting for that focal length. If you adjust the aperture at a longer focal length and then come back to wide open at that focal length, it won't open the aperture wider than that setting if you zoom wider. It assumes you want to use that aperture value at the wider focal lengths.
If you are shooting in manual exposure because you want to keep exposure consistent (and therefore not using Auto-ISO), there is a custom function setting in the orange menus (don't recall what it's called) that will 'float' either the shutter speed or the ISO with variable aperture lenses. This is also true if you add/remove a TC. It will automatically bump or drop either the shutter speed or ISO accordingly.
GreenHaven wrote:
1b) The displays brightness is also too low or too high.
Suggestions on how to achieve naturalness please!
EVF or rear display?
I believe the EVF is by default set to automatically adjust brightness. I find that there are situations where it can be fooled and either make it too bright or too dark. Best to set it up for one of the options you can toggle through to show the histogram so that you can use it to confirm whether or not the brightness you see is representative of the exposure.
I don't recall if the rear display has an auto brightness setting. I have that one set manually and yes, in full sunlight at that setting, it's too dark. But I mostly use the EVF for taking, reviewing and changing menu settings in full direct sunlight.
Shutter modes: IMO there is very little reason not to leave it in e-shutter for virtually any situation. The only time I have needed to switch to EFCS is for 1/250 flash sync without going into HSS mode. E-shutter syncs at 1/160 which sometimes is slightly too slow. Also related to flash, based on very brief testing of HSS in all three shutter modes, at around 1/2000 and higher, slight banding becomes visible in all modes EXCEPT full mechanical. This is probably due to how the strobe is pulsed for HSS in conjunction with how the sensor is read out in e-shutter and EFCS.
Cons of mechanical and EFCS include viewfinder blackout and with EFCS if you're working with wide aperture values (~f/2.8 and faster) AND high shutter speeds (around 1/2000 and higher), bokeh quality will become more 'busy' than if full mechanical or full electronic was used. With the R5II in such scenarios, just use e-shutter.
Not sure what to suggest about the strange viewfinder color balance other than to go to the store and try another camera in comparison. It's possible there is a problem with the EVF panel in your copy. This might also be tied to the brightness inconsistency.
p.1 #4 · Canon R5 Mk II + RF 100-500 mm - Current Mysteries
rscheffler wrote:
Your phrasing above suggests you want a faster lens than possible at 500mm. I think you mean you want to use it at maximum aperture throughout the zoom range.
No I think he actually wants to use it at f4.5 @ 500 which is physically impossible. I think it's from a wrong understanding of how variable aperture zooms work. I would be interested which lens allowed him to set f5.6 at 100 or 500 or anywhere in between.
As for the color in the viewfinder basically lacking red channel - one way to check for a hardware defect is to go to the menus; each group is color coded, the first one is red. If the first menus don't appear red but rather ... black, then you have a hardware defect. Otherwise a full reset of the camera should bring it back to health.
p.1 #5 · Canon R5 Mk II + RF 100-500 mm - Current Mysteries
Good rule of thumb - for the minimum entrance pupil diameter for a particular focal length and f/stop, divide the focal length by the f/stop. For example, a 500 mm lens at f/4 will have at least a 125 mm diameter front glass element.
For a 500 mm f/5.6, you would need at least a 500/5.6 = 89.3 mm front glass element diameter.
p.1 #7 · Canon R5 Mk II + RF 100-500 mm - Current Mysteries
GreenHaven wrote:
A few questions if I may:
1a) When looking through my new R5 Mk II viewfinder at a live subject with the intention of photographing it, what I see is distinctly tinted and colored blue/blue-green for some inexplicable reason. I am not seeing the natural colors as its not accurate.
The colors red, orange and yellow are not shown at all. Really weird.
I can achieve similar output if I deliberately and intentionally set the white balance to say 3,500K
I mentioned this to my salesperson when purchasing it and got no answer.
1b) The displays brightness is also too low or too high.
Suggestions on how to achieve naturalness please! ...Show more →
Reset the camera to the factory default settings and start over again.
2) Why is it that I can only get f7.1 when fully extended on my new RF 100-500 lens?
Because it's an f7.1 lens when fully extended.
3) In what situations, uses or for what purposes do I use:
Mechanical shutter
Never.
How do I understand when to utilize each type?
There are very few reasons to use the mechanical shutter on the R5 II, unless you are working with strobes.
