dourbalistar
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Tina Kino wrote:
..so nice!
Basically every time I see one of your trichrome still lifes I think to myself "I finally have to buy some filters and try this myself" 🙂
There's something about the colors, and the way the whole image looks sort-of "etched" (for lack of a better word).
What I wonder is - do slightly different red, green and blue filters (so not exactly #25, #58 and #47) give different colors?
Have you tried "tweaking" the colors that way?
Also I suppose one has to be very disciplined making the three shots (screwing filters off and on carefully, using a sturdy tripod etc.) so the camera doesn't move at all and one doesn't end up with color fringes.
In your last example, when looking at the flowers in the top left corner, there's like a reddish fringe / ghost a bit to the right of it - does this happen where things are less in focus, is it actually a matter of (axial) chromatic aberration - or did those flowers just move a little between shots?
Also one more question (if I may) - have you tried different films for this, and would you say some are better suited than others (like Ilford usually being more red sensitive for example than Kodak)?
Thank you in advance! ✌️...Show more →
@Tina Kino, thank you for the kind words! Trichromy is fascinating, and I find the process and results really satisfying. I've experimented some, but don't claim to be an expert. For filters, I think higher quality filters will generally give you more color-accurate results. You can certainly use less expensive filters, or ones that aren't exactly the #25/#58/#47, but those filters may let other wavelengths of light through with crossover/bleed into other channels, resulting in some strange or unnatural color casts that might be hard to correct.
If you aren't trying to achieve color accuracy per se and don't mind experimenting just for fun, any RGB-ish filters should work. I have not tried purposely tweaking the colors this way, but some people have "replicated" the pink foliage look of Aerochrome with infrared film by swapping some IR and color channels. I say purposely, because here's an example where the circumstances led to some unconventional results. It was slightly overcast during the red and green filtered frames of this trichrome, but the sun broke through just before the blue filtered frame. Instead of trying to recalculate the exposure to compensate, I just carried on to see what might come out. Looks kinda like... Lomochrome Purple?
2023.04.13 Roll #330-08063-positive-trichrome.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
For the image taking, I definitely use a tripod, and do my best not to bump the camera while screwing and unscrewing filters between shots. I generally use a cable release, but I've also used the self-timer to include myself in the composition.
2020.10.13 Roll #261-05340-positive-trichrome.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
Not moving the camera is key, but another tricky step for me is aligning the three images in post-production. Some software like Photoshop have an auto-align feature which probably makes that a non-issue. I don't have Photoshop and use (free and open source) GIMP in the post-processing. GIMP doesn't have auto-align, so I have to manually align and don't always get it perfect. I think that's what caused the fringes in the last image I posted. Of course, anything else that actually moves between frames will result in some rainbow-like effects in the final image:
2021.05.15 Roll #276-06160-positive-trichrome.jpg by dourbalistar, on Flickr
In my own trichromy experiments, I have only used Ultrafine eXtreme 400 and Kentmere Pan 400. Some think they're the same film, so take that for whatever it's worth. That said, every film has a slightly different spectral sensitivity like you mentioned, so I suspect the end results might look different with HP5+ versus Tri-X. "Better" is hard to define.
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