rdcny wrote:
My wife and I have been doing a self-drive through Namibia and northern Botswana (Chobe). We have spent much time on the coast, and went north through Etosha and the Caprivi Strip (the strip of land the Germans retained between Angola and Botswana so a route to the Atlantic via the Zambezi River might be possible...except Victoria Falls got in the way). Vehicle is a 4x4 Toyota and is about $75/day with full insurance.
NYC
Timely discussion as I was looking at self-driving options in Namibia, Botswana & Zambia. Did you rent your vehicle from Windhoek or some place in Botswana? I assume you got the extended gas tank version (something like 140 liters)? Did you end up renting a satellite phone? There's a good chance that I might do the trip solo. Given the isolation of the roads in some of these places, what are your thoughts on someone attempting this solo? (I'm neither mechanically inclined, nor am I the Bear Grylls type that can survive in the wilderness, but I'm used to traveling alone.)
Didn't know that there was a sub-thread on CIFs! Here are mine from last February, Gol Kopjes, Tanzania. The wildebeest calf got separated from its mom and the herd. The cheetah quickly assessed the situation and gave chase. The calf escaped 3 times, briefly, but was always recaptured immediately. A film crew were the only others to witness this sighting.
Ok more info in a day or so; I am about to board a flight to Serbia for long eared owls in the small town of Kikinda. I’ll say this though: where you rent from depends a lot on what city you land in; and what you will need depends upon how much time you spend in Namibia vs Botswana . Both are very safe and very doable and no need to get into crazy remote areas for you will see a lot in well traveled areas . And no you should not need a satellite phone unless you have the money to burn… think of using/needing less!
rdcny wrote:
Ok more info in a day or so; I am about to board a flight to Serbia for long eared owls in the small town of Kikinda. I’ll say this though: where you rent from depends a lot on what city you land in; and what you will need depends upon how much time you spend in Namibia vs Botswana . Both are very safe and very doable and no need to get into crazy remote areas for you will see a lot in well traveled areas . And no you should not need a satellite phone unless you have the money to burn… think of using/needing less!
Filmed with a Canon R5c, DJI RS3 Pro, RF 70-200 2.8, RF 100-500, RF 400 2.8, EF 24-70 2.8. All shoot 8K RAW 50fps other than the Cheetahs running that are at 4k 100fps.
OK BVphotos...here goes since I just arrived in Serbia at my Air BnB and am settling in with much jet lag. By the way there are "only" 200 Long-eared Owls in the town square - usually about 800...but this year is mild as you might have heard from Germany east to Ukraine!
How much time do you have? That will determine a lot...and getting to Maun (Botswana) is tough to do (have to fly in to J'Berg and take a regional airline). With this in mind, I'd suggest staying in Namibia for this trip. Roads are great in Namibia (except Etosha National Park)...but you could see loads and loads just staying in Etosha at several of the government lodges - and just driving in the park for 7-10 days. That is a lot of time, and though wildlife is not teeming there as it is in other places - it is quality stuff and close.
But a lot of where you want to go depends upon what you want to see...
Anyway, Deborah and I got a good deal on a rental vehicle (that Hilux in the photo above) - four wheel drive but on the opposite side compared to the USA...and remember it is a manual transmission - so that is opposite too!
Personally, I would fly into JBerg...rent a vehicle there and go spend four weeks in lodges in Kruger National Park. We thought that was better value - and the roads in Kruger are 1000% better than Etosha.
If you are more into seeing/photographing landscapes - Namibia is amazing (so is South Africa).
Anyway, please provide some info on how much time you have; how important seeing wildlife is vs having a "road" (driving) adventure, etc.
For renting a good vehicle for a reasonable price, we used this fellow in Windhouk:
Travel Namibia 4x4 Car Rentals... contact Johan at: xxxxxals
That is a good company...but no matter how good, you will still get a tire leak (or flat) and a vehicle that is worn in. It will run fine though...
So much could be written for advice, suggestions. Ultimately you know yourself best: if you like to solve problems on the fly...enjoy being independent, taking chances...then a self-drive could be a lot of fun. But no one will be there to hold your hand when problems happen (and they will)...but people will help and the problems will get solved. It all depends upon your tolerance for the "unknown."
Will the 1.4x TC get any use? I don't want to swap lenses/TCs to much in the field, so I would either have the TC on or off when heading out.
TIA
My guess is that with 600mm you'll go a long way. Incidentally it might get some use. Go out the gate without. I'm in the Mara in feb for two weeks so might see you around
@rdcny, thanks for sharing all that useful information. Did FM automatically xxx out the contact information you included for Johan, or did you write that? In any case I'll look him up on google.
Yup, basic automotive skills are going to be essential, especially for a solo traveler. Too many people on these trips report getting at least one flat, and worse.
As for how much time I'll have, it's still up in the air. I'll try to set aside as much time as is absolutely essential, but I suspect I won't be able to get away for more than 4 weeks. And, yes, for me it's not just about wildlife, it's also about the landscape, the people & culture. Your suggestion to do wildlife in South Africa makes sense. But for me that would have to be a separate wildlife-focused trip, with side trips to one of Swaziland, Lesotho or Zambia. Those on an extended trip could rent a 4x4 in Joburg and do parts of SA, Botswana, parts of Zimbabwe & Namibia, but, alas, I won't have that kind of time.
Regarding Tires in Namibia: on the rental vehicles we saw, most had worn tires...many (tires) would not pass inspection in the USA. This bothered us some and we could never tell if our slow prolonged stops when braking were because of the tires or the brakes. Because the vehicles are driven off road so much they do get rocks/stones causing punctures - and then they get patched. The problem is the patches wear out or with much use don't adhere as well - so you get leaks...The good news is there are many (most gas stations) places to re-patch the tire, and patch it well. The second problem then becomes who talks a good game about patching...and who is actually good at it! You have to interrogate anyone doing anything for you of importance how competent they really are...Good Luck! Namibia (+ Botswana + Zimbabwe) are the wild west of people talking what they can do for you (or want to do) - and how close they can actually deliver! Good Luck with this. South Africa is better in this regard. And of the three mentioned together, Namibia was the more reliable country...but good luck! Again, if you are not troubled by the unknown or at least a not clear choice (only less good choices) of what you should do - then yes this is a trip for you (a road trip).
Overall we saw people of all ages doing this - they all seem to survive and get back to where they started - and everyone has stories to tell about what happened along the way! The really really good thing is that most Africans (Black or White) want to help. They know adversity and have had to rely on others to get them through problems. This "good nature" was a joy to watch, encounter (and rely on). But sorting out who really knows the way to solve a problem best, from others just trying to help - that can be a challenge.
Up to four weeks would be fine. I'd say do Namibia if you want landscapes, people and wildlife. The desert is amazing - and so different from place to place (coastal with the ocean on one side vs a place like Spitzkoppe which is giant granite outcroppings rising above the desert). Namibia also has great roads (but Etosha roads are the worst worst - like an old time wash board for miles), gas stations (you'll likely be using diesel - more expensive than "gas") and places to stop eat etc. Gas stations had gas wherever we went and only once did we get down to about half a tank of the second tank (65L and 65 L...with a tent on the roof and a spare tire below the carriage on these older [2018 or so] vehicles, expect about 22mpg. Without all that camping stuff and a newer vehicle, we got 30-32 MPG in Kruger). If I were you, I would not get a vehicle with camping stuff but stay in hotels/Air BnB's wherever. Sleeping on the roof of a vehicle with the stars above you surrounded by animals sounds wonderful....but after a few nights on a hard surface your body is less impressed! And climbing down from the top of the tent to go to the bathroom...or making coffee over a propane stove first thing in the morning - that is fun once or twice but then becomes real work.
You can cross borders with the vehicle - we did that several times between Namibia and Botswana. It is relatively straightforward - no one hassles you...just fill out the forms (10 minutes) and hope there are not ten other vehicles waiting to cross...Also, we were never hassled by police anywhere. With a kind word and a smile, we received the same in return. Police seem to take a hands off attitude toward tourists - and we are easily identified as such.
There is a great GPS for Africa (look up Tracks for Africa) that is not expensive. We used one (a different one than Tracks 4 Africa) from our cell phone...we always found our way to the next destination by sundown.
Again, if you have time and a frame of mind where nothing is mapped out in advance (and problems might arise), this is something doable. And depending how adventurous, you can really find roads/places where you are alone. We felt safe at all times...we never felt threatened and we were never the victims of crime. We would do the trip again albeit this time staying in lodges/air bnbs 95% of the time. If we were in our 20s/30s the camping thing might have been more fun. (Some of the shared bathrooms are not so nice - bring waterproof floppies for your feet; don't expect a place to hang your towel...). But camping allows you to get to places (especially Botswana) where you are in the heart of "nowhere" with everything around you (elephants/lions - they don't fence off camp sites in Botswana)...but more often than not, shared campsites in the desert are not so private - just hope you don't arrive on a popular weekend/tourist season. You'll have lots of smoke from barbecues drifting past (and into your tent at night).
Ask more questions - or contact me off list...And yes we would do self-drive trips again (we are planning one for Tanzania in November; and another for Chile in June-July). It's work - but it is your own trip/tour. We liked that most.
unfortunately this happens now and then in the Mara. A big problem. Bad for the animals, and photographically it sucks being so close since you're looking down too much
dallvr wrote:
Didn't know that there was a sub-thread on CIFs! Here are mine from last February, Gol Kopjes, Tanzania. The wildebeest calf got separated from its mom and the herd. The cheetah quickly assessed the situation and gave chase. The calf escaped 3 times, briefly, but was always recaptured immediately. A film crew were the only others to witness this sighting.
Awesome sequence. I had never seen a chase or take down before so for me the one experience was incredible. Thanks for sharing.
Alan Kefauver wrote:
I put a lot of my stuff on the walls in my home. I have 13x19 photos all over the LR, DR, Kit. I also post my stuff in my Flickr pages. Flickr.com/apkef/albums. I just finished a series I call faces of Africa and now have faces on the walls. https://www.flickr.com/photos/apkef/albums/72177720303769152
I have actually been going back and redoing some of my 2019 Safari with the newer software no available. Went 2019, 2021, and going back in 2023. Here's a face for you.
Great photos Alan. She Who Must Be Obeyed will not let me put up any of my wildlife photos anywhere in the house but in the basement and my home office. So that is where they are. I also have them in my office at work where of course they are welcomed by everyone. Perhaps one day I will be as good as Nick Brandt, then maybe I will be allowed to put them up anywhere
dallvr wrote:
Yes, it is a really exciting, intense and rare safari experience, isn't it?
We got to witness the 5 cheetah brothers stalk and attack a group of topi in the Mara. Didn't last long and was unsuccessful, but still, a lifetime experience.
Jeff Nolten wrote:
We got to witness the 5 cheetah brothers stalk and attack a group of topi in the Mara. Didn't last long and was unsuccessful, but still, a lifetime experience.
The Five Boys, right? A photo buddy of mine from the UK actually saw them successfully take down a Topi. He has an amazing photo of all of them on the animal. Rare sight indeed. Sadly only two are left alive now I believe. I saw them all together in 2020 the last time, this year when I went back, only four were left, now only two.
Will the 1.4x TC get any use? I don't want to swap lenses/TCs to much in the field, so I would either have the TC on or off when heading out.
TIA
I had the a9 with the 200-600 on one of my trips, great rig, covers everything you need. Probably the TC will not be used at all unless you are shooting small birds. For animals in the distance there will be too much heat haze and such.
The Tamron will be great for low light times. In fact my 70-200 2.8 gets used the most on my trips. The big mammals you can usually get very close to and then you need the fast lens for shallow DOF and the light.
I typically do not swap lenses in the field at all, just use what I have mounted on my camera bodies and crop in post if needed.
I would leave the TC off at the outset.
I will also be in Kenya end of Feb, but at Amboseli, on my way to the Serengeti. Good luck with your trip.
