Just finished reading through the thread. Thank you all for the insights and images. I'm trying to start myself off with a three lens kit where the focal lengths are so far apart, I have purpose to use them all. Down the road I can shorten the gaps between them.
So, I've got the CV 40mm 1.2, which is simply remarkable. I have settled on getting the Laowa 15mm F2 Zero D as my wide lens, but I'm torn between the 65mm APO Lanthar, the upcoming 110mm APO Lanthar, and the Samyang/Rokinon 135mm f2 (which tests show is super sharp and could be given the designation of APO).
The Samyang/Rokinon is so affordable, but the construction isn't on the same level as the Voigtlander lenses. That said, most people seem to be having good success with their copies. At least from what I've read. Would I be better off with the 65mm focal length, or should I go longer? I don't really shoot people, but I do spend a lot of time shooting nature and abstract things. Eventually, I want to have this as my lens kit: 15mm, 28mm, 40mm, 65mm, 110mm, and 135mm. For now, I need three to get me going.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated.
The CV 65 is an outstanding lens, no questions. I do own and use the CV21, CV40 and CV65 and I appreciate them all. Nevertheless the CV110 is also on my list, just slightly bigger than the CV65 and probably very similar to the CV65....but that we will see soon. Looking at what you are planning to own, I would go with the CV110 first, if image quality is on par with the CV65.
DavidBudo wrote:
Just finished reading through the thread. Thank you all for the insights and images. I'm trying to start myself off with a three lens kit where the focal lengths are so far apart, I have purpose to use them all. Down the road I can shorten the gaps between them.
So, I've got the CV 40mm 1.2, which is simply remarkable. I have settled on getting the Laowa 15mm F2 Zero D as my wide lens, but I'm torn between the 65mm APO Lanthar, the upcoming 110mm APO Lanthar, and the Samyang/Rokinon 135mm f2 (which tests show is super sharp and could be given the designation of APO).
The Samyang/Rokinon is so affordable, but the construction isn't on the same level as the Voigtlander lenses. That said, most people seem to be having good success with their copies. At least from what I've read. Would I be better off with the 65mm focal length, or should I go longer? I don't really shoot people, but I do spend a lot of time shooting nature and abstract things. Eventually, I want to have this as my lens kit: 15mm, 28mm, 40mm, 65mm, 110mm, and 135mm. For now, I need three to get me going.
Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. ...Show more →
I have both CV65 and samyang/rokinon 135 and I have to say the latter one is a lot harder to use. I'm a MF newbie, but due to focal length, size and the way focus ring operates (grinding feel, not smooth compared to CV) I'm struggling to find occasions to use the 135. However, it's also because I'm not really familiar with 135 focal length and the depth of field at f2 makes it difficult to nail the focus.
I think I'd go with CV110 if I were to buy now just for the ease of use (I assume it will be closer to CV65 than to 135 samyang), but I guess we don't know much about it yet (plus I think IBIS is more effective with 65mm).
If you like the 135mm focal length, the SY/Rok 135 can be an outstanding optic. I had three copies, and one had a ton of internal dust, with all of them having an odd and significant internal flare that degraded the IQ under certain conditions.
Aside from that, it was excellent, though the build quality didn't feel up to snuff. Perhaps they've improved. If you don't mind possibly having to go through a few copies to get a solid on, it's a true bargain as far as the IQ is concerned.
It's not exactly cheap, but not expensive either, and you can probably pick one up second hand for under $400.
SY could use the same optic in an improved housing/body, (perhaps with AF) and have a real winner on their hands.
The Rok 135 is a milestone optic that is let down by its build quality, and really let down by its lack of control over stray light. I simply can't use it for studio purposes because of flare artifacts and veiling glare—even with flagging and use of the (quite decent) hood. I would pay triple the price to get the same glass rehoused properly but that doesn't seem likely from Samyang. The cinema version may qualify although the geared control rings present a different usage problem.
We've had the 65mm Macro working in our repro studio for some time now. It has a problem unfortunately not uncommon even in macro lenses of not holding its focus point over time when pointed straight down on a copy stand. Very problematic when photographing hundreds of frames with the same focus point. It counted out using the camera/lens on one of our other setups where constant refocus was not a possibility.
With extensive testing we learnt that it was the movement of the shutter which would jolt the lens just enough that over tens of images the focus would shift, weird but true, believe me we tried everything else it could have been. It's not the weight of the elements or time which does it. Only shutter actuations (tested using tethering, etc). Unfortunately silent shutter doesn't work with the flash that our setup requires.
We knew our Nikkor 60mm Micro did not have this problem and tried it adapted on our A7rIII but it's so much less sharper at f2 (though equal at f8) that with the lack of a decent manual focus ring, focusing wide open was a real pain in the neck in comparison with the Voigt. Enough that I wanted to find another, any other solution.
Today I think I found it. After focus I stick a thin piece of gaffer tape from the focus ring to the barrel. It has to be here, lower down the entire barrel rotates with the aperture ring. So far with testing (250+ frames) it has solved the problem, no focus shift at all. Rather a pain but far less than refocusing every 30 frames which we had been doing until now!
http://www.timelessjewishart.com/EDC_zx/voit.jpg
Probably an incredibly niche problem and solution but in case it might help anyone, I thought I'd share....Show more →
Wouldn't you use e-shutter aka silent shooting in this situation?
If you are using the optosigma filter for the ultron 35mm, do you know what coating should i order?
I got this reply from optosigma:
"Regarding your question about SLB-50-5000PM, this lens has an AR coating for visible range 400 – 700 nm.
Is this what you are looking for or you need another type of coating?
These are the available options for AR coating for these lenses:
M: 400-700 nm
IR1: 633-1064 nm
IR2: 750-1550 nm
We can also do a customized AR coating if you need a different range. If you would like to do something like this, please let me know the range for AR coating. "
If you are using the optosigma filter for the ultron 35mm, do you know what coating should i order?
I got this reply from optosigma:
"Regarding your question about SLB-50-5000PM, this lens has an AR coating for visible range 400 – 700 nm.
Is this what you are looking for or you need another type of coating?
These are the available options for AR coating for these lenses:
M: 400-700 nm
IR1: 633-1064 nm
IR2: 750-1550 nm
We can also do a customized AR coating if you need a different range. If you would like to do something like this, please let me know the range for AR coating. "
If you are going to use the lens with an unmodified Sony body the "M: 400-700 nm" will work well for visible light. The other two are for infrared (IR) photography. Visible light ranges from 400-700nm wavelength.
I just wanted to let anyone know who's interested in buying this lens that I have one posted in the B&S forum. Not sure if I'm allowed to post this here, so apologies in advance. If it needs to be taken down, that's fine.
